REFRIGERATOR AND FREEZER
Dometic refrigerator and freezer. Runs on electric or propane. It’s a typical RV/travel trailer brand and not an offname cheaper brand.
1500 BTU per hr. 440 watt. 2.7 amp.
The microwave is a handy but not a major brand. Has worked fine over the past year without issue.
Max output 900W. Power consumption 1.35KW.
This is a specific brand (Suburban) range oven you will find in all different brands of RVs. 3 burners, pilot oven.
Added a Honnywell digital thermostat for more accurate temperature when using the heater. The heater is a 20,000 BTU gas heater.
This unit keeps track of critical temperatures. One look and you’ll know if your refrigerator is working properly.
REFRIGERATOR – FREEZER – inside and outside the travel trailer.
Use Velcro you hang those curtains. No need for curtain rods etc.
Adding hooks help organize. On the wall, inside and outside of cabinets. Easy access to those frequently used items.
No need to dig through the cabinets for those spices. And don’t lose the remote! Take the paper towels off the counter for more space. Amazon CAMCO oak accents.
It’s summer time. Humidity is high. Time to run your dehumidifier. This model can be obtained from Amazon for around $49.
Plug a double male headphone jack into the AUX on the stereo, set mode to AUX1 IN, plug the other end into your TV audio out…
and you have surround sound coming through your speakers.
ELECTRIC AND WATER LINES
Raise those lines of the ground. Keep chipmonks and squirrels from damaging those lines. I keep those hooks in my gear. You can get them at Home Depot or Lowes.
The city water and filter (blue tube) hookup.
The blue tube is a water filter. This only filters for water oder (such as chlorine) and particles that may come through the water supply line.
The angle brass fitting helps with the stresd pressure on plastic parts. The quick connect (green and black part) makes it easy for disconnecting the water line and adding a quick connect end section to fill the non-pressure fresh water tank.
and… the quick connect tube to fill the fresh water tank.
Line splitter not essential but nice to have…
I add a splitter so I can have an outside hose (blue water line) for outside rinsing when needed. Unfiltered.
A water pressure regulator restricts the pressure to protect the interior lines from possible over pressure from the city water connection.
Also carry extra water hose in my storage compartment. There is no set rule on how far your water supply is from your parking for the trailer.
Can never have enough leveling blocks. Lighter and cleaner than wood. Buy them at the same time and get all the same so they can all interlock. I found 3 sets for double axle was enough for most situations.
Definitely use a circuit analyzer/surge protector. This will protect all your interior electronics.
Not all plugs are the same. I have a 30 amp trailer. But if the only sites available are 50 amp sites. I better have adapters from 50 amp service to 30 amp service. Notice plug configurations also… I can get by in most situations with this assortment. (The first 2 are identical, bought the second one by mistake… didn’t think I had it already)
Typical 30 amp along with 20 amp service. Notice the plug configuration.
This device gives you a quick look at electrical supply. Make sure you are in a good service range to keep from damaging sensitive electrical equipment. This is showing 122 VAC. It will fluctuate.
Why install a battery cutoff… if your camper sits idol there are small drains that will drain your battery. Such as the propane and carbon dioxide detector that is direct wired. Radio clock… the first winter this killed my original battery. More quickly than you would expect. So I researched cutoffs and purchased a marine cutoff switch. This was installed internally in the pump access area under refrigerator next to the hot water tank. It is out of the way and would have to be purposely turned off to ensure it wouldn’t affect safety. (Propane/carbon detector)
CHOCKING THE WHEELS.
I use a double method. Chocks and spread locks.
NEW BED ZZZZZzzzzzz
Matress size RV short queen 60″X74″ compared to a regular queen size bed 60″X80″… the RV is same width but length is 6″ shorter. And the corners are angled cut.
The mattress that came with the camper wasn’t all that comfortable. It felt like sleeping on a sheet of plywood. So out it goes and in comes Spa Sensations 8″ memory foam! It really is nice when you wake up and not have sore hips and a good night sleep.
Set in place, use a permanent marker to trace under the bed. Flip over and cut to shape of cornered bed with an electric kitchen knife. Cuts like butter. No more pain in the back!
THE SHOWER CURTAIN
I added an extended shower curtain rod. But decided to keep the other rod in place… reason is hanging towels and other items to dry. There was no reason to remove it if I can use it. But it did give that little extra room. The pic shows the rod inverted into the shower area so it is out of the way when not in use. Then maneuver it outward when in use. It was quick to install. After measuring the opening I used a hack saw to cut approx 6″ of the center bar then redrilled the hole for the screw. Two screws on each side were attached to the wall.
THE HOT WATER TANK
This is a 6 gallon hot water tank. The circuit board is attached top left with the red wire inserted. If you have a problem with your hot water, check this board. You’ll be able to tell if the board burned out by inspecting the board now when it is working properly and if you are having issues it will be easy to reveal a problem. Also if you smell the distinct electrical burning smell.
The hot and cold show the shut offs. Also the pipe that is connected across and into both hot and cold pipes. When winterizing your travel trailer you will need to use these shut offs. Before adding the antifreeze shut off the hot and cold pipes by turning the shutoff across the pipe so that the handle is across the pipe and no longer in line with the pipe. Then open the bypass, the pipe in between. Turn from across to in line with bypass pipe. Open your outside hot water panel and relieve the tank pressure by lifting the pressure relief valve. Once the pressure is relieved then remove the annode rod to empty the tank. I suggest checking this rod every 3 months and replace as necessary. But replace annually after the winter.
The first pic shows the fresh water tank drain. When winterizing you will need to drain the fresh water tank by unscrewing the plug and let gravity drain the tank.
Three second photo shows the blue and red lowest point drains. This will completely drain your water system before adding antifreeze through the pump and your system.
Also in the second photo it shows your waste deployment lever. Never open unless hooked up with waste drain hose. Lol, you’ll be able to figure this out why. There are two levers to pull. Pull your black water tank first them after draining leave open and pull the grey water handle to flush hose out. Then don’t forget to close both before use.
This fan is plugged into one of the USB outlet. I bought this fan because it has very little power draw and works of the 12 volt system. Important if you are boondocking without a power connection or generator hookup. Just helps move the air.
THE BEE’S 😨
I JUST HAD THE BATTLE OF THE BEE’S LAST WEEK. Hornets! They set up fast, and once they do…. LOL you’ll be in for some fun. It pays to take a look around your camper once in a while for bees flying in and out of a vent or any little crack. I happen to see them flying in and out of the refrigerator panel. Needless to say, I sure suited up for the job! Of extermination. They were going a little buzz crazy.
I had put screens for mud daubers on other vent areas but didn’t put it on the refrigerator access panel. Screened areas shown. But i found one more place (see the yellow lightning bolt)… you can be sure ill seal that up too! The louvers as show in the pic.
The REFRIGERATOR louvers. This is where the bee’s set up on me.
The screen package for this cost $25. A bit pricy but definitely worth it.